Kitchen notes

Why we buy pepper at 6 AM

Why we buy pepper at 6 AM

Mile 12 at dawn is where the day's flavour is decided — before the sun softens the tomatoes.

The market run

Every morning one of us is at Mile 12 by six. Tatashe, scotch bonnet, tomatoes, onion — bought before they have sat in the sun.

What it changes

Stew made from morning pepper is brighter and needs less oil. You taste it in the jollof by lunch.

Why we tell you

Because when the pepper is bad, the stew is bad, and we would rather sell out than serve it.